The mechanism of phospholipids in cosmetics

Phospholipids exhibit excellent moisturizing and repairing effects in cosmetics, which are closely related to their unique chemical structure and physiological functions. The specific mechanisms are as follows:

I. Moisturizing Mechanisms

Formation of a water-locking barrier: Phospholipids are amphiphilic, with hydrophilic heads that can bind to water molecules and hydrophobic tails that aggregate with each other. When applied to the skin, phospholipids form a continuous lipid film on the skin surface. This film acts as a barrier, preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keeping the skin hydrated.

Enhancement of stratum corneum hydration: The molecular structure of phospholipids is highly similar to the lipid components in the skin’s stratum corneum. They can penetrate into the stratum corneum and interact with intercellular lipids, enhancing the hydration capacity of the stratum corneum. This allows the stratum corneum to retain more moisture, increasing skin water content and keeping the skin soft and smooth for an extended period.

Hygroscopic effect: Phospholipids have hygroscopic properties, enabling them to absorb moisture from the surrounding air and retain it in areas of the skin needing hydration. This 补充 s moisture to the skin, further improving moisturizing effects—especially in environments with high relative humidity, where this hygroscopic effect is more pronounced.

II. Repairing Mechanisms

Simulation of skin biofilm structure: As a major component of cell membranes, phospholipids share structural similarities with intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. When cosmetics containing phospholipids are applied, they can mimic the skin’s natural biofilm structure, filling in damaged or missing lipid parts in the stratum corneum. This helps strengthen the ordered arrangement of stratum corneum lipids, repairing the skin’s barrier function and enhancing its resistance to external stimuli (such as ultraviolet rays, pollutants, and allergens).

Promotion of cell metabolism: Phospholipids provide essential nutrients to skin cells, participate in cell composition and metabolic processes, and help maintain normal cellular functions. They also contribute to skin signal transduction, protecting the skin’s healthy homeostasis, promoting the renewal of skin cells, and accelerating the repair and regeneration of damaged cells to keep the skin healthy and vibrant.

Antioxidant effect: Some phospholipids possess antioxidant properties, capable of scavenging free radicals in the skin and reducing oxidative damage to skin cells (such as lipid peroxidation and protein denaturation). This slows down skin aging, promotes the skin’s self-repair, and maintains skin elasticity and radiance.